A Boy and His Horseradish
September 29th, 2005 · by Jim Hole
First Published in the Edmonton Journal 9/29/2005
It’s been said that in the event of a worldwide cataclysm, only the cockroaches will survive. But I think that the tenacious cockroach might have at least one fellow survivor in such a catastrophe: horseradish. Well known as one of the hottest, spiciest herbs, horseradish’s flavour is but a reflection of the plant’s incredible tenacity.
Down the Horseradish Trail
I enjoy a regular run or walk down the trails by the Victoria Park golf course, and each year a cluster of broad-leaved horseradishes on a south-facing, grassy slope endures everything Edmonton weather can throw at it, including broiling summer heat, devastating drought and bitter cold. And each year, I can see where people have inadvertently trampled on the plants or harvested them for culinary use, leaving nothing behind but a mass of discarded leaves. This summer I even spoke to a Polish fellow who regularly harvests Edmonton’s wild horseradish; when I asked him whether or not the horseradish was hot, he just shook his head with an incredulous look in his eyes, as if to say, “What, are you stupid? Of course it’s hot!”
Spicy Chemicals
Horseradish owes its pungency to a category of plant chemicals called isothiocyanates. The “thio” in the name indicates the presence of the element sulphur in the chemical’s molecular makeup, which explains the sulphur-like odor you can’t help detecting when you crush the roots. (In fact, you won’t notice the odor unless you crush the roots; the act of crushing causes a naturally occurring enzyme called myrosinase to liberate the isothiocyanate compounds.) Isothiocyanates are also responsible for the unmistakable flavour of horseradish, a spice that will light a fire under any dish. My friends have a name for the moment these compounds hit your nasal cavity; they call it “brain burn.”
The Roots of Success
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is, without doubt, one of the world’s most successful plants. A perennial herb native to Europe and Asia, it is a member of the mustard family, which includes broccoli, cabbage, canola, and, naturally, mustard. It has become naturalized in North America, adapting to a wide range of climates across the continent. The secret to its success is its extremely tough root system, a root system with white, carrot-shaped roots with an incredible capacity to produce side shoots – actually rhizomes, which grow sideways through the earth and send up new shoots that grow into new plants.
Once established, horseradish spreads very rapidly and can be extremely hard to get rid of should you ever grow tired of their pungent company. In fact, a few years back, I talked to researchers at Brooks, Alberta who were experimenting with horseradish for possible export to Japan. They had no trouble growing the crop, but plenty of trouble getting rid of it once the experiment was complete – in fact, rumor has it that they’re still struggling to eradicate the horseradish in their experimental plot.
So if you plan on growing horseradish in your yard, you’d better choose a spot where the plant can be contained. Otherwise, the horseradish could mount a hostile takeover of the rest of your garden!
Phoenix Without Ashes
“My” patch of horseradish down by Victoria Park has recently been levelled by heavy equipment during construction of a new set of pedestrian crosswalk lights. But am I worried? No way. Other plants may be wiped out by the passage of a skid loader or two, but to horseradish, such abuse amounts to little more than a simple pruning job. At best, it’s a temporary cataclysm, and I have no doubt that I’ll see fresh green horseradish shoots emerging from the (metaphorical) ashes next spring.